What to Check When Your Whirlpool Electric Dryer Won't Start

!±8± What to Check When Your Whirlpool Electric Dryer Won't Start

The right voltage

The first thing that the dryer need to have, is the correct voltage at the terminal block. There should be 240 volts from L1 to L2 and 120 volts from N to L1 and N to L2.

The thermal fuse

The thermal fuse is a protective device that is use on the dryer. The thermal fuse will blow if the operating thermostat is not opening at the preset temperature of about 150 degrees.
When you find the thermal fuse blown, you need to replace the operating thermostat and thermal fuse at the same time.

The push to start switch

The push to start switch is a switch that is use to start the dryer motor. There are two different types of push to start switches.

The regular push to start switch and the relay push to start switch. The regular switch is a momentary switch, in other words is only on while you are pushing it. The relay one stays on when you push it during the complete cycle.

The door switch

The door safety switch is use to make sure that the dryer stops running any time that the door on the dryer is open.

This switch works together with the push to start switch, in other words, when you open the dryer door, the dryer will stop running, to start the dryer again you will need to close the door and push the start button to get it running again.

The timer

The timer is the dryers brain. It is in charge of distributing the electricity to the right parts in the dryer. With time and usage the contacts wear out and sometimes won't make good contact.

The motor
The motor is in charge of turning the dryers tumbler and making the final connection to the heating circuit.

As you could see there are many parts that have to be checked to find out why your Whirlpool electric dryer won't start.

Taking a guess when replacing parts could be very expensive. The easier way is to learn how to check these parts in order to be able to fix your dyer yourself.

What to Check When Your Whirlpool Electric Dryer Won't Start

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How to Test Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat-Bi-Metal

!±8± How to Test Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat-Bi-Metal

In order to complete this job you will need the following tools:

Needle nose pliers

phillips screwdriver

1/4" nut driver

Ohm meter/voltage meter

Please Note: The process for changing a defrost heating element applies to all three styles of refrigerators. The three styles are, side by sides, top freezer mounts, and bottom freezer mounts.

The very first thing that you need to do before you begin your installation is to disconnect the power supply to your appliance. Sometimes there can become a build up of frost on the evaporator panel. If this has occurred on your evaporator panel, you will need to defrost it first. The preferred method is with a hairdryer. DO NOT use a heat gun. It will give off too much heat, and could warp and deform your plastic liner. Once you have defrosted it to the point that you can see the screws, you can stop defrosting. Now you should be able to remove the screws along with the evaporator panel.

After the evaporator panel is removed, you will need to defrost the evaporator as well so that you can locate the defrost thermostat.

Note: If you have a top or bottom mount freezer that contains your icemaker, it will need to be removed as well. After you have removed the evaporator panel, you also have to defrost the evaporator. You must do this so that you can locate your defrost heating element. It will be a black cylinder heater, or a glass cylinder that contains a coiled wire inside of it. The glass tube style of defrost heating element is VERY FRAGILE, and if broken is very dangerous.

Note: Do not totally defrost the evaporator coils. You need the defrost bi-metal switch to stay cold. It needs to be cold in order for you to test it. The defrost bi-metal switch contact is closed when it is cold, and open when it is warm. You will find the defrost bi-metal switch fastened to the top right, or left corner of the evaporator coil.

Now that you have located the defrost bi-metal switch, now you need to locate the wire ends or wire harness and unplug them. Set the Ohm/Voltage meter to Ohm. Attach one lead to each of the wire ends, to test the bi-metal switch. If the meter reads zero on a digital Voltage meter, or if the needle moves to the right on standard Voltage meter, then your bi-metal switch is good. (If the bi-metal is still cold) If the meter reads one on a digital voltage meter, or the needle does not move on a standard voltage meter, then the bi-metal switch is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Once you have completed testing the defrost bi-metal switch, put the evaporator panel back on and you also need to reinstall the icemaker(If applicable) You have completed the job!

We know this is only a general idea on how to change the defrost thermostat Bi-Metal, but it should give you the most important points to be able to complete the job. If you still have any questions on this process, please feel free to contact our tech support. They will be standing by to take your calls, and help you in any way that they can.

How to Test Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat-Bi-Metal

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